CB Range discussion

I’ve had my CB3K for quite a few years now, and I’ve tweaked it in ways that might interest the community. Since images speak louder than words, I’ve posted several pictures in my Album to go along with this write-up.

The Ring: I’ve never really liked having my testicles squeezed through a closed ring. The hinged rings included with the CB3K gave me trouble; irritation was one issue, and breakage another. I wasn’t keen on needing an extra sleeve over the hinge either. When the plastic cracked at that joint and fell apart, I knew I needed something better. While I appreciated the “open top” design of the CB6K, it felt like there were too many small components. My keyholder isn’t as into chastity play as I am, so simplicity was important to keep her from being intimidated. Plus, I wanted to stick with a round locking pin rather than the oval one used in the 6K model. A round shape allows me to swap in a metal pin for extra security (more on that below). Ultimately, modifying my existing 3K made more sense than buying a new 6K.

I used my trusty Dremel tool to remove the center section of a solid ring, cutting just inside the holes meant for the two lateral pins. I also flattened the area around these openings so the new central piece sits properly. For this middle part, I purchased a sheet of 1/8-inch thick plastic from Lowe’s and cut two pieces wide enough to bridge the gap between the pins. The front piece has a narrow opening for the locking pin—just big enough for its shaft—with holes for the two white alignment pins passing completely through it. The rear piece features a larger hole so the head of the pin sits flush against the back surface; this one has an indent for the alignment pins, though the hole doesn’t go all the way through.

Since the alignment pins now keep the cuff ring shut, their ends need to be capped so they don’t slip out. I left them long enough to pass entirely through the ring and into that rear piece.

I glued this removed center portion of the ring onto the plastic sheets using epoxy putty. Before gluing, I sanded the face flat with the Dremel for better adhesion. The two plastic pieces are bonded together with super glue, creating a very strong connection alongside the epoxy. After assembly, everything gets final sanding and smoothing.

The Locking Pin: I wanted to use metal, but online suppliers stopped carrying pins suitable for the CB2/3K models. Fortunately, my local Lowe’s has 1/4-inch metal pins with the right diameter. I used my Dremel to widen the correct hole and trim off any extra length.

Spacers between cuff ring and cage: The small spacers that come with the CB3K seem too tiny and easy to misplace. So, I cut several pieces from the plastic sheeting, drilled the needed holes, then super-glued them together into one solid spacer unit. This allows it to remain attached to the cage by resting on the alignment pins. Once everything is assembled, there are a few “pinch points” that need smoothing out.

Preventing pull-out: My penis varies greatly in size from fully flaccid to erect. When soft, the head stays entirely within the shaft section of the cage. In this state, it’s easy for the cage to slide away from my body and allow the penis to slip out. Making the cage tight enough to stop this would make long-term wear uncomfortable. Also, my wife (my keyholder) dislikes sharp edges like those found on “Points of Intrigue.” The only real solution is anchoring the tip inside the cage.

I tried a rubber ‘O’ ring behind the glans, but it caused irritation after a few days. Piercing seems unavoidable here. After some research, I got a PA piercing. Since I don’t want a large hoop in the piercing itself, I opted for an 8-gauge curved barbell. On the underside of the shaft end, I use a 6mm “half-ball,” and at the tip, there’s a 5mm ball with a hoop containing a 14-gauge, 1/4-inch segment ring. These components are available from "" Because my penis moves significantly within the cage, a fixed attachment point like Lori’s tube might not work well for me. The connection needs to slide back and forth, requiring a small chain. I initially tried a large dog collar chain that could accommodate the lock’s shackle, but wanted something more compact. provided what I needed: a “Medic Alert” necklace with a fine, strong stainless steel chain.

I cut this chain to length and attached an 18-gauge ring to each end—one fits through the lock’s shackle, while the other loops through the PA barbell’s ring. Although I initially hoped to solder these rings shut, soldering stainless steel is tricky because its “stainless” nature resists standard welding techniques. Fortunately, a product called “J-B Weld,” a two-part metal epoxy that cures as hard as steel, solved this problem. A dab on each seam keeps the rings secure.

The ring connecting to the PA barbell end was folded over so it wraps around the 14-gauge ring for a neater finish.

That’s my setup. It’s comfortable, secure, and straightforward to put on or remove without losing small parts. I find it superior to the original CB3K design.

I hope this helps others using the CB3K model. As noted earlier, photos are in my album for those interested.