member_f42ecd5f9c
- Posting sinceAug 2026
- Posts2
- Threads2
- Mostly inStarting out
Here are the modifications I’ve applied to my CB-6K for better wearability and to stop it from pulling out.
I referenced a community page with details. Using a band saw, I removed a wedge from the tube—about 1/8 inch off the bottom side while leaving almost nothing on top. After sanding everything flat, I glued the pieces back together using crazy glue. Once that set, I applied clear PVC cement (the kind used for white plumbing pipes). This adhesive dries slowly and can be sanded.
The result is a better fit with less protrusion when wearing clothes. My wife didn’t even notice it was on after several days. The tube now presses slightly more against the testicles, but that’s fine by me.
For my next modification, I added a line so the lock could sit on the side guide pin. I disassembled a metal electrical plug (bought from an electronics shop) and ground down its main piece. It’s a tube with a shoulder at one end that won’t slide through the lock hole of the primary pin. I had to flatten one side of this shoulder so it sits flush against the front face of the 6K. Through this part, I threaded two nylon strings, knotting one end to keep it from pulling back and unraveling, while fraying the other end so they could be melted together for easier insertion through the lockpin hole. This free end is then placed into the lock, which is now attached to the guide pin. With the lock positioned on the side, the large front bulge disappears.
A side view looks something like this—where == represents two lines knotted at one end (@) and melted together at the far end ---. The |____ indicates the top of the round tube, while ____ is the bottom (this is a cutaway view):
|_______ @=================================------
To fix pullout issues, I used an O-ring that was longer than usual and tied nylon strings to its ends using several double constrictor knots (also known as strangle knots) with nylon thread. I also melted the end of the nylon string so it became slightly thicker than the rest of the line, adding friction. Then, I whipped the nylon rope around the O-ring, reinforcing it with more nylon thread. Finally, I wrapped Teflon plumbing tape around the knots to smooth them out and used nylon thread to secure everything.
Next, I drilled two holes in the tube near the front underside and pulled the nylon rope through them. The O-ring loops around the penis head; as the penis retracts inside, the O-ring tightens, preventing it from sliding back. Without this mod, any O-ring loose enough not to restrict blood flow when erect would fall off when flaccid.
The ends of these strings have knots tied in them (and melted so they don’t untie) and are pulled over toward the lock. This represents a stage where things are ‘getting close’. One slight adjustment is needed for the O-ring line: as it crosses under the penis head, the skin can sometimes pinch. I plan to wrap these two lines in a soft tube material to prevent that. Surgical tape might be a good short-term solution.